气候变化领域集成服务门户(CCPortal): Non-hydrostatic, Non-linear Processes in the Surf Zone

CCPortal

DOI	10.1029/2019JC015521
	Non-hydrostatic, Non-linear Processes in the Surf Zone
	Martins K.; Bonneton P.; Mouragues A.; Castelle B.
发表日期	2020
ISSN	21699275
卷号	125 期号:2
英文摘要	In the surf zone, non-hydrostatic processes are either neglected or estimated using linear wave theory. The recent development of technologies capable of directly measuring the free surface elevation, such as 2-D lidar scanners, allow for a thorough assessment of the validity of such hypotheses. In this study, we use subsurface pressure and lidar data to study the non-linear and non-hydrostatic character of surf zone waves. Non-hydrostatic effects are found important everywhere in the surf zone (from the outer to the inner surf zones). Surface elevation variance, skewness, and asymmetry estimated from the hydrostatic reconstruction are found to significantly underestimate the values obtained from the lidar data. At the wave-by-wave scale, this is explained by the underestimation of the wave crest maximal elevations, even in the inner surf zone, where the wave profile around the broken wave face is smoothed. The classic transfer function based on linear wave theory brings only marginal improvements in this regard, compared to the hydrostatic reconstruction. A recently developed non-linear weakly dispersive reconstruction is found to consistently outperform the hydrostatic or classic transfer function reconstructions over the entire surf zone, with relative errors on the surface elevation variance and skewness around 5% on average. In both the outer and inner surf zones, this method correctly reproduces the steep front of breaking and broken waves and their individual wave height to within 10%. The performance of this irrotational method supports the hypothesis that the flow under broken waves is dominated by irrotational motions. ©2020. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
语种	英语
来源期刊	Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://gcip.llas.ac.cn/handle/2XKMVOVA/186980
作者单位	UMR 5805 EPOC, CNRS-Université de Bordeaux, Pessac, France
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Martins K.,Bonneton P.,Mouragues A.,et al. Non-hydrostatic, Non-linear Processes in the Surf Zone[J],2020,125(2).
APA	Martins K.,Bonneton P.,Mouragues A.,&Castelle B..(2020).Non-hydrostatic, Non-linear Processes in the Surf Zone.Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,125(2).
MLA	Martins K.,et al."Non-hydrostatic, Non-linear Processes in the Surf Zone".Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 125.2(2020).