气候变化领域集成服务门户(CCPortal): Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

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DOI	10.1029/2019JC015503
	Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef
	Sous D.; Dodet G.; Bouchette F.; Tissier M.
发表日期	2020
ISSN	21699275
卷号	125 期号:2
英文摘要	This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than 2 months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth-averaged momentum balance in such a complex and poorly documented environment. The combined analysis of experimental and numerical measurements reveals a specific hydrodynamic behavior contrasting with sandy beaches and fringing reefs. The cross-reef current induced by wave breaking over the barrier reef plays an important role in the momentum budget, in particular through friction processes. The hydrodynamic behavior over the barrier reef is thus characterized by the progressive transition from a nearly classical beach type behavior on the forereef, where the gradient of radiation stress is balanced by a barotropic pressure gradient associated to the wave setup, to an open-channel type regime, dominated by frictional head loss. The reef top wave setup shows a clear depth dependency mainly attributed to the forereef curvature. During extreme wave events, the measurements tend to indicate a transition toward a critical hydraulic regime above the reef top. The numerical simulations, involving a non-hydrostatic wave-resolving model coupled to a (Formula presented.) turbulence model, highlight the vertical structure of the flow. Over the reef flat, a classical log-layer profile is observed, in agreement with measurements, while above the forereef an anticlockwise circulation develops under the breaking zone. © 2020. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
英文关键词	barrier reef; coral; experiments; friction; momentum; wave
语种	英语
来源期刊	Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://gcip.llas.ac.cn/handle/2XKMVOVA/186978
作者单位	Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, La Garde, France; Univ Pau & Pays Adour / E2S UPPA, Chaire HPC-Waves, Laboratoire des Sciences de lIngénieur Appliques a la Méchanique et au Génie Electrique Fédération IPRA, ANGLET, France; IFREMER, Univ. Brest, CNRS, IRD, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), IUEM, Brest, France; Geosciences-Montpellier, Univ Montpellier, CNRS, Montpellier, France; GLADYS, Le Grau du Roi, Occitanie, France; Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, Netherlands
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Sous D.,Dodet G.,Bouchette F.,et al. Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef[J],2020,125(2).
APA	Sous D.,Dodet G.,Bouchette F.,&Tissier M..(2020).Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef.Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,125(2).
MLA	Sous D.,et al."Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef".Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 125.2(2020).