气候变化领域集成服务门户(CCPortal): High-Energy Surf Zone Currents and Headland Rips at a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach

CCPortal

DOI	10.1029/2020JC016259
	High-Energy Surf Zone Currents and Headland Rips at a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach
	Mouragues A.; Bonneton P.; Castelle B.; Marieu V.; Jak McCarroll R.; Rodriguez-Padilla I.; Scott T.; Sous D.
发表日期	2020
ISSN	21699275
卷号	125 期号:10
英文摘要	We analyze Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of wave-induced circulation collected during a 3-week field experiment at a high-energy mesotidal barred beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave and tide conditions were found to largely impact circulation patterns. Three main regimes were identified depending on offshore wave obliquity: (1) Under shore-normal configuration, the flow was dominated by cross-shore motions, except for moderate waves at low tide, with the presence of a quasi-steady circulation cell on the reef. (2) Under shadowed configuration, an onshore-directed current flowing away from the headland and a weak oscillating eddy were present outside and inside the shadow region, respectively. (3) Under deflection configuration, a deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone was present, with activity maximized around low tide for moderate waves. Under 4-m oblique waves, the deflection rip was active regardless of the tide with mean depth-averaged velocities up to 0.7 m/s 800-m offshore in 12-m depth, with energetic low-frequency fluctuations. Our results emphasize the ability of deflection rips to transport materials far offshore, suggesting that such rips can transport sediment beyond the depth of closure. This study indicates that a wide variety of wave-driven circulation patterns can occur and sometimes coexist on beaches with prominent geological settings. Changes in the dominant driving mechanism can occur as a result of small changes in wave and tide conditions, resulting in more spatially and temporally variable circulation than along open sandy beaches. ©2020. The Authors.
英文关键词	field measurements; geological constraints; headland rips; nearshore circulation; rip currents; very low frequency
语种	英语
来源期刊	Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://gcip.llas.ac.cn/handle/2XKMVOVA/186663
作者单位	University of Bordeaux; CNRS; UMR 5805 EPOC, Pessac, France; Coastal Processes Research Group, School of Biological and Marine Sciences, University of Plymouth, Plymouth, United Kingdom; University of Toulon; Aix Marseille University; CNRS; IRD; Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France; University Pau and Pays Adour; E2S UPPA; Chaire HPC-WAVES; SIAME, Anglet, France
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Mouragues A.,Bonneton P.,Castelle B.,et al. High-Energy Surf Zone Currents and Headland Rips at a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach[J],2020,125(10).
APA	Mouragues A..,Bonneton P..,Castelle B..,Marieu V..,Jak McCarroll R..,...&Sous D..(2020).High-Energy Surf Zone Currents and Headland Rips at a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach.Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,125(10).
MLA	Mouragues A.,et al."High-Energy Surf Zone Currents and Headland Rips at a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach".Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 125.10(2020).