气候变化领域集成服务门户(CCPortal): Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type

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DOI	10.1029/2020JC016935
	Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type
	Carini R.J.; Chickadel C.C.; Jessup A.T.
发表日期	2021
ISSN	21699275
卷号	126 期号:4
英文摘要	This is the second of a two-part series concerning remote observation and wave-by-wave analysis of the onset of breaking for spilling and plunging waves in the surf zone. Nearshore phase-averaged and phase-resolving wave models parameterize and directly simulate wave breaking and require realistic critical values of key wave parameters, such as the depth-limited breaking index γ, steepness, or phase speed to initialize wave breaking. Using LIDAR line-scans and infrared imagery, we observe over 1,600 breaking waves at the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC, and examine these parameters on a wave-by-wave basis at the onset of breaking for 413 spilling and 111 plunging waves. We find that γ is maximum near the onset of breaking at values consistent with those previously observed at the FRF, but that γ for plunging waves (0.73 ≤ γP ≤ 0.81) is greater than γ for spilling waves (0.63 ≤ γS ≤ 0.71). Direct estimates of wave face slope are maximum at the onset of breaking, approximately 22° for spilling and 30° for plunging waves. Using the relationship between γ and wave face slope, we develop a threshold for the onset of breaking that is a linear function of the two parameters. Wave face slope and γ are further used together to quantify whether a spilling- or plunging-type breaker is more likely. We test the Miche steepness limit on our depth-limited breaking data and find it correctly predicts only 10% of the plunging breakers and none of the spilling breakers in the surf zone. © 2021. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
英文关键词	infrared imagery; LIDAR; plunging; spilling; surf zone; wave breaking
语种	英语
来源期刊	Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://gcip.llas.ac.cn/handle/2XKMVOVA/186380
作者单位	Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Carini R.J.,Chickadel C.C.,Jessup A.T.. Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type[J],2021,126(4).
APA	Carini R.J.,Chickadel C.C.,&Jessup A.T..(2021).Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type.Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,126(4).
MLA	Carini R.J.,et al."Surf Zone Waves at the Onset of Breaking: 2. Predicting Breaking and Breaker Type".Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 126.4(2021).